Biarritz, France -day 2

We were determined to surf today. Pierrick had given us a brochure for a company he knew, but when we got there, they were already full for the day. We walked down to the beach and passed another surf school: Plums École de surf à Biarritz.  

We got a lesson right away and had to suit up in smelly wetsuits and Ripcurl rash guards. There were 8 in our class. Another couple who spoke French, a young girl named Holly from Ireland, and one girl and two French teenage boys. 

We took our boards down to the beach and sat in a circle and introduced ourselves. Then we stretched a bit. 

The two younger girls stayed with us (the newbs) as it was only our first lesson. The girl instructor took the rest into he ocean while we learned the basics on the beach. 

We had the skinny dude with curly hair teach us in Frenglish. There was only one girl who spoke French so he apologized to her and attempted mostly English. 

He showed us how to lie on the board with our hands square below our shoulders. Then how to prepare our feet to jump up. The jump can happen more slowly hen you think. The position is the most important part. You want your s dominant foot back, and to step up first. You want to be far enough up the board, and have your feet square to the board. 

He was adamant about flexing down into a squat position for more control and keeping your back hand down and your front hand up. This helps you balance (it really does). He also showed us paddle techniques for getting out and taking a wave. 

After proving to him that we could stand up in the proper position (attitude, as he explained it), we went into the water. 

We paddled out and prepared ourselves for a wave. Our instructor seemed pretty confident that we would all get up. I didn't think this was likely. 

Holly, the 11 year old from Ireland went first. She got up in her first go and surfed out to shore.  That made us a little more determined to get up! The instructor was good at helping us if we wanted it. He would hold us on the wave and tell us when a good one was coming. Then he would tell us when to paddle and when to stand (negotiating the waves is the hardest part, aside from actually paddling out there). He set me up, and told me to go go!

I focused straight ahead, got to my feet, and surfed my first wave! It was awesome. I was slightly off balance and pushed right, but I still got some good distance. 

It was like being in a movie. I loved the feeling of moving through the water whilst standing upright. Exhilarating. 

Shay was determined to do it alone and paddled hard on waves that were maybe too big for a beginner. He was having trouble standing, as his feet always ended up too far to the back, tipping the board as he stood. 

After a few more rounds I was getting the hang of it. I got up a bunch of times and stayed for a bit. It was very helpful having someone tell you when to move and watch what you were doing right and wrong. 

I would definitely like to practise again! Biarritz was a great place to learn because it seems that most people there aren't pro star surfers.  The really good surfers come in a little later. 

They only surf (or teach and rent boards at low tide here). At high tide the waves are crazy big and extremely hard to negotiate. Shay rented a board a little later in the day and found this out first hand. He wasted half an hour on the far end, trying to get over the breaks. This can be exhausting. 

Which way is the beach?

Then he moved down the shore where more of the surfers were but the current kept pulling him into no surf zones and the life guard would blow his whistle at him. 

After the hour was up, a very tired Shay came and joined me on the beach. The tide was coming in fast. We had to move our towels three times, and the last time was one second too late as a crashing wave dispersed higher than anyone anticipated. We only soaked one towel which was good. 

It's coming for you!!

After playing in the waves, we decided to walk back to the apartment to shower and come back for dinner. If we could stay at the beach all day, we would have. It got busy later in the day, but the people were very nice and it was clean. 

They have a speaker that dictates announcements and notices to anyone at the beach. One was an alert for pick pockets on the beach. 

On our way home we bought some food for tomorrow's breakfast and lunch. We were trying to blend in.

We showered and came back for a cheap dinner. We had spent 70 euros on surf lessons so we wanted to keep it cheap. Unfortunately you get what you pay for and our 20 euro dinner wasn't much to write home about. 

We didn't want to end our eating experience in France on that note, so we stopped for crepes and gauffres on the pier. I got the Nutella crepe and Shay the chocolate, banana and chantilly gauffre. Go big or go home!

There are paths in all directions lines by beautiful gardens and ocean. We walked along past the fishing boats, and museums and over to this Mary-like statue above a huge rock over looking the sea.

Our walk home was a sad one, as we knew it would be our last in the city. We didn't want the night to end.